Rodin and Dalí in Mexico City's Silver Shell

My first encounter with Museo Soumaya in Mexico City was like stumbling upon a mirage, a shimmering anomaly. Perched proudly in the modern Polanco district, its presence is undeniable, almost magnetic. The sun, a skilled sculptor in its own right, plays across the museum’s surface, causing its hexagonal aluminum tiles to glint and flicker with an ever-changing silver light. It felt alive, like the scales of some mythical deep-sea creature that had ventured ashore, or a meticulously crafted jewel box designed for giants.

I remember craning my neck, tracing the building’s organic, curvaceous form, devoid of harsh angles. It flows and undulates, defying conventional architectural norms. This isn't just a structure; it's a conversation starter, a visual poem penned by the celebrated Mexican architect Fernando Romero. I recall reading how he drew inspiration from Rodin's 'The Thinker' in Paris, aiming to create a space echoing the human form and fluid essence of art. Mesmerized by the interplay of light and shadow on its metallic skin, I felt a profound sense of anticipation, certain that whatever treasures lay within would be perfectly housed by such an extraordinary exterior. The building itself is the first masterpiece you encounter, setting an impossibly high bar for the collection inside.

Stepping across its threshold, the exterior's grandeur gives way to an equally breathtaking interior. The museum’s design cleverly eliminates central columns, creating a vast, open expanse spiraling upwards through six floors. It's a journey, not just an ascent. I found myself drawn along the gentle, curving ramps, a pathway encouraging contemplation as much as navigation. Natural light, a precious commodity in many museums, floods the space, especially on the upper levels, lending an ethereal glow to the artworks. There’s a quiet majesty to this internal landscape, a sense of being enveloped in a grand, protective shell.

And what treasures this shell protects! As I ascended, the collection unfolded like a richly illustrated story. While the museum boasts an astonishing array of European and Mexican art, including pre-Hispanic and colonial pieces, it's the sheer density and quality of certain masters that truly leave an impression. The top floor, bathed in the soft, diffused light filtering through the translucent ceiling, is a sanctuary for Rodin. Encountering 'The Thinker' and 'The Kiss' here, surrounded by powerful bronzes, felt different. The light, the vastness of the space, the quiet hum of appreciation from fellow visitors – it all conspired to elevate the experience. Rodin's raw emotion and sculptural mastery resonated with the building's own organic forms.

But Soumaya’s magic doesn’t stop there. Delving into other levels revealed a delightful surprise: a significant collection of Salvador Dalí’s sculptures, testament to the museum’s eclectic yet profound holdings. His surreal figures, often distorted and dreamlike, stood in fascinating contrast to Rodin's classical intensity, yet both found a fitting home within this unconventional setting. From the delicate ivory miniatures to the grand canvases of European masters, and the vibrant tapestry of Mexican art, each piece felt thoughtfully placed, given room to breathe and engage. My visit wasn't just a walk through galleries; it was an immersion into a unique architectural vision profoundly enhancing the artistic journey, a true testament to how a building can be as much a work of art as the masterpieces it contains.

Practical Tips

Museo Soumaya is located within Plaza Carso, a modern complex in the upscale Polanco district of Mexico City. Its address is Blvd. Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra 303, Granada, Miguel Hidalgo, 11529 Ciudad de México, CDMX. The museum offers free admission to all visitors, an incredible cultural gift. It typically operates from 10:30 AM to 6:30 PM, seven days a week, though verifying current hours on their official website is always wise. The easiest ways to reach the museum are by taxi or ride-sharing services. If using public transport, the Polanco Metro station (Line 7) is a feasible option, requiring a 20-minute walk or short taxi ride. I recommend arriving shortly after opening to enjoy a quieter experience, particularly on weekends. Within Plaza Carso, you’ll find numerous dining options, from casual cafes to upscale restaurants, perfect for a meal or coffee. Additionally, the Jumex Museum, another significant contemporary art space, is just a stone's throw away, offering an excellent opportunity to combine two world-class cultural experiences.